Discovering the Sisterly Bond Between Banaras and Nepal
A Travelogue by Dibya Dahal
Recently, I visited Banaras also known as Kashi or Varanasi and Sarnath, two of India’s most spiritually and historically significant destinations. While soaking in the rich culture of these places, I stumbled upon fascinating tales of Banaras’ deep-rooted historical connection with Nepal. This bond spans centuries, reflecting shared struggles, cultural exchanges, and intellectual growth.
Kashi has long held a special place in the history of Nepal. The city’s spiritual aura and intellectual environment made it a refuge for Nepalese royals, scholars, and political leaders, especially during times of upheaval.
One of the earliest connections traces back to King Prithvi Narayan Shah, the unifier of Nepal, who visited Kashi before embarking on his historical mission to connect the small Kingdoms of Nepal into the nation we know today. Seeking divine blessings and perhaps inspiration, he laid the foundation for a unified Nepal with the spirit of Kashi guiding him.
Another important tale is that of Ranjit Malla, the defeated king of Bhaktapur. After losing his throne, he chose to spend his final days in Kashi, a place that provided solace and dignity to many exiled royals. Over time, “Kashibas” (exile to Kashi) became a tradition for Nepalese monarchs and political figures who were banished to ensure they wouldn’t interfere in their homeland’s politics.
King Rana Bahadur Shah spent four years in Kashi in the early 19th century after being dethroned due to political unrest in Nepal. His time in Kashi, though controversial, left an incredible mark on the city, including the construction of the famous Nepali Temple, which stands as a testament to the shared heritage. The Pashupatinath Temple in Banaras, though smaller than the grand temple in Nepal, is no less impressive in its architectural beauty. The temple is built in the traditional Pagoda style which includes tiered wooden structures, intricate carvings, and a roof covered in golden plates.
Even the infamous Queen Rajyalakshmi, a central figure in Nepalese palace, active during the events like the Kot Massacre and the Bhandarkhal episode, was exiled to Kashi in 1847. Her exile coincided with the rise of Jang Bahadur Rana, who established the Rana dynasty that ruled Nepal for over a century.
Banaras wasn’t just a place for exiled royals but also a hub for Nepalese scholars, poets, and students. Bhanubhakta Acharya, the first poet of Nepal, studied in Kashi, where he was deeply influenced by its literary environment. Another renowned poet, Motiram Bhatta, spent much of his short life in Banaras. He played a pivotal role in developing the Nepali language, possibly drawing inspiration from Bharatendu Harishchandra, a literary figure of Banaras who modernised Hindi in the 19th century.
The city was home to eminent Sanskrit scholars like Hemraj Sharma, Somnath Sigdel, Kulchandra Gautam, and Padma Prasad Bhattarai, who brought back knowledge that enriched Nepal’s intellectual traditions. For many decades, Banaras was also the primary centre for publishing books in the Nepali language, cementing its role in Nepal’s cultural and educational development.
The Banaras Hindu University (BHU) played a significant role in shaping Nepalese thought leaders. It attracted students from Nepal, offering them opportunities to engage in diverse disciplines at a time when higher education in Nepal was scarce. Many of these students returned home to contribute to the country’s progress.
Kashi also served as a base for Nepal’s democratically minded leaders during turbulent times. Bishweshwar Prasad (BP) Koirala, Nepal’s first elected prime minister, was born in Banaras and named after the city’s presiding deity, Lord Vishweshwar. Koirala spent many formative years in the city, including during his exile in the 1970s after his release from prison in Nepal.
Veteran communists like Man Mohan Adhikari and Madan Bhandari also spent time in Banaras, either for their education or during political exiles. Banaras became a cradle for the revolutionary ideas and democratic movements that shaped modern Nepal.
Similarly Nepal’s connection with the serene and peaceful city of Sarnath is equally fascinating. Buddha was born as Prince Siddhartha Gautama in Lumbini, Nepal, over 2,500 years ago. He grew up in a palace but left his royal life to search for the truth about life and suffering. After years of hard work, he became enlightened in Bodh Gaya, India. From there, he went to Sarnath to share what he had learned.
In Sarnath, Buddha taught the Four Noble Truths and the Eightfold Path, which explain how people can end suffering and find peace. This was the beginning of Buddhism, a religion that spread from India to Nepal and the rest of the world.
Sarnath and Lumbini are like two chapters of the same story. Lumbini is where Buddha’s life began, and Sarnath is where his teachings began. Together, they connect Nepal and India in a shared history of peace, kindness, and wisdom.
Sarnath and Nepal are deeply connected through Buddha’s life and teachings. Nepal gave the world Buddha, and Sarnath gave the world his message of love and peace. These two sacred places remind us of the importance of compassion and wisdom in our lives, showing us the way to a better world.
With a history that stretches over 3,000 years, Banaras holds a special place in Hinduism as a sacred city, believed to have been established by Lord Shiva. The city is home to many temples, with the Kashi Vishwanath Temple being the most famous, attracting pilgrims from all over. Historically, Banaras was a hub for learning and culture, with notable figures like the poet-saint Kabir and the scholar Tulsidas residing here. It remains a place of deep spiritual significance, where the Ganga River flows through, considered to cleanse the soul and wash away sins. The city’s ghats, where people perform rituals and pray, are iconic, and its vibrant culture includes music, dance, and arts, especially in the field of classical music. Banaras is also known for its fine silk sarees, traditional handicrafts, and unique food, all contributing to its rich cultural identity. Today, it continues to be a centre of education, with institutions like Banaras Hindu University (BHU) shaping minds, while also remaining a popular tourist destination, where people come to experience its ancient spiritual atmosphere and deep-rooted traditions.
While roaming around the city, I came to realise that the city has quite a good number of Muslim population. Their history also dates back to centuries in the city of love and life.
The Mughal Empire (16th-18th centuries) had a strong presence in Banaras. The city was an important center of both trade and culture during this time. The Mughal rulers, especially Emperor Akbar and his successors, supported the construction of mosques, Islamic schools, and the spread of Islamic culture. The famous Gyanvapi Mosque in Banaras was built by the Mughals in the 17th century on the site of an older Hindu temple.
After the decline of the Mughal Empire, the city came under various regional powers, but the Muslim community remained an integral part of Banaras. They contributed to local trade, crafts, and educational institutions, especially in the fields of Persian and Urdu literature.
Hindu groups assert that the Gyanvapi Masjid was built after the destruction of the original Kashi Vishwanath Temple. They argue that there are remnants of Hindu structures within the mosque, such as an idol of Lord Vishwanath, and they demand that the mosque be either relocated or the temple be restored. They also seek permission to perform regular prayers and rituals at the site. The controversy is ongoing, with legal battles still taking place in courts. Various appeals and petitions have been filed, and the case has been passed through several levels of the judiciary. Tensions remain high, and the matter has attracted significant political and media attention.
Photo Courtesy of Dibya Dahal